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The recipe for these appears in my cookbook, Bubbie’s Kitchen,
and when I was teaching, I made them often, as the students loved making and eating them. I devised the original recipe using instant potato flakes because the results were consistent and we did not have the time during our class period of 45 minutes to start from actual potatoes. My son, Ari, loved them and mentioned them recently. I had not made them in at least 15 years. Then, I had a surplus of mashed potatoes which I made to rescue the leftovers from a 20 lb. bag of russet potatoes that I purchased on a whim at Costco. (Who hasn’t purchased an oversupply of something at Costco?) I decided to try making the recipe with real mashed potatoes and the result was potato dumplings as light as a feather and better than any gnocchi I had ever eaten at an Italian restaurant.
Slishkas used to be a regular item on bar
and bat mitzvah
buffet meals back in the 1950s and early 1960s. They disappeared, practically without a trace, as party food became lighter and trendier, and old Eastern European Jewish cooks adopted more convenient dishes. We really enjoyed eating this batch, but it may be a long time before I ever make them again. It is a lot easier to just eat the mashed potatoes. Also, making the mashed potatoes into knishes allows for preserving them through freezing. Eventually, I might make slishkas with my granddaughters, as rolling the dough into long snaky cylinders is fun and beats doing the same thing to Play-Doh on a rainy afternoon.
An important technique in this recipe is to use mashed potatoes that have not been made too liquid by the addition of large amounts of milk or cream. Use floury potatoes, such as russets or Idahos. Let the potatoes dry out in a colander for a few minutes after they have been boiled in lightly salted water. Mash them while still very warm. I add onions that have been sauteéd in butter (along with the butter) while mashing, and season with more salt and freshly ground pepper.
Slishkas
Dough:
- 4 cups seasoned mashed potatoes, refrigerated for several hours or overnight
- 2 extra-large eggs
- 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
- 2 cups all purpose flour (preferably unbleached)
Coating:
- 3 Tbsp. butter
- 1-1/2 cups fine bread crumbs
- 1-1/2 cups finely ground potato chips
Mix mashed potatoes with lightly beaten eggs and salt until combined.
Add flour gradually while mixing at lowest speed or by hand.
Lightly knead the dough in the bowl for one to two minutes, or until it is springy. (At this point, if necessary, the dough can be covered well with plastic wrap and set aside for a short while, or it can be refrigerated overnight.)
Turn dough out onto a well-floured surface and knead lightly. Keeping the dough, your hand, and the surface well-floured, roll pieces of the dough into ropes that are one-half to one-quarter inches thick.
Cut each rope with a floured knife into 1 to 1-1/2-inch-long pieces.
Gently drop the pieces of dough into a large pot of salted, rapidly-boiling water. You may want to work in small batches so that the pot does not become overcrowded, the water temperature drops, or the first ones in do not cook much longer than the last ones added.
After they rise to the top, boil them, uncovered, for 4 to 8 minutes, or until they are chewy and firm, but not doughy. (Overcooking can make them gummy.)
Immediately remove them with a slotted spoon and drain them well. (If you use a steamer insert in your pot, you can just lift it out and let the shlishkas drain in the insert.)
While the slishkas are cooking, prepare the crumb coating by melting the butter in a large skillet over medium heat and stirring in the crumbs until completely coated and hot.
Toss the well-drained slishkas in the buttered crumbs and serve.
These may be refrigerated for a few days and reheated by baking, uncovered in a 350°F. oven, or by microwaving until heated through. Do not freeze.