Macaroni and Cheese Our Way

The photo shows macaroni and cheese made with celentani (corkscrew shape) noodles, but that is only because I decided to make this at the last minute and had run out of my preferred pasta for this dish, semolina cicciole (shell-like shape) which I buy at Whole Foods or some of my local supermarkets in the natural foods section. The original recipe comes from Saveur #18. I was a charter subscriber to Saveur and it still remains my favorite food magazine. The last issue I received was #117 and I have cancelled all my long-time subscriptions to magazines, now, in favor of online (and more ecological) ezines. Also, I am allergic to the inks and always had to read newspapers and magazines with a box of tissues on hand.

The original recipe called for a half teaspoon of cayenne pepper. My sister once asked me to make this without the spice for a party because she was having a lot of children present. Everyone who had this before, and loved it, wanted to know what was wrong with it that day, even the adults who profess not to like spicey food. I noticed that when my sister made it for the last party, even though it was a two-year-old birthday party, the spice was back, and everyone was going back for seconds. Lately, I have been experimenting and find that I like powdered chili de arbol even better. So even if you don’t think you like spice, try the recipe first as written, and be sure to use lots of freshly ground pepper as well. Don’t be discouraged if the kids who are used to the instant blue box variety don’t take to it immediately. Their tastebuds will grow up some day soon.

My friend Roxy’s daughter Sarah came over for lunch with her unexpectedly a few weeks ago, and had leftovers of this. Roxy tells me she has been checking for the recipe on the blog since then, so here it is, Sarah, as I promised.

Macaroni and Cheese

• 8 Tbsp. (one stick) unsalted butter
• 6 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
• 1/2 tsp. ground cayenne pepper or chili de arbol
• salt and freshly ground white or black pepper
• 3-3/4 cups hot milk
• 4 cups (approximately 1 lb.) grated Cabot Private Stock Extra Sharp Cheddar
• 1 lb. cicciole or other short pasta, cooked according to package directions, and well drained
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 3/4 cup fresh bread crumbs

Preheat oven to 350°F. Bring a large pot of water to a boil to cook pasta.

Meanwhile, melt 6 Tbsp. butter in a large non-stick saucepan over low heat. Add flour and cook, stirring constantly, for about 4 minutes (flour mixture must foam as it cooks, or sauce will have a raw-flour taste).

Stir in cayenne and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Whisk in hot milk, 1/2 cup at a time, and cook, stirring, until sauce begins to bubble and thicken.

Reduce heat to low and stir in 2 cups (half) of the cheese. Cook, stirring, until cheese melts, about 2 minutes.

Combine pasta and sauce and season with salt.

Sprinkle 1/2 cup cheese over the bottom of a buttered 8" x 11" baking dish. Place one third of the pasta in the baking dish and top with another 1/2 cup of cheese. Repeat, layering pasta and cheese and ending with the cheese, making three layers in all.

Pour cream over assembled macaroni and cheese.

Melt remaining butter and add bread crumbs, tossing with a fork to coat with the butter. Sprinkle over macaroni and cheese.

Bake until crust is golden, about 30 minutes. Allow to rest for 15 minutes before serving. Serves 6 to 8 as a main course, more as a side dish.